As we got down from the High-Speed Train, Afrosiyab from Tashkent, our guide welcomed us to this enigmatic place - A city as old as Rome, A place which was a crucial transit point on the Silkroad, Ancient world’s melting pot of cultures.. That's Samarkand for you.
.jpeg "Silk Road Paths - Sogdiana") |
| Silk Road Trade Routes converging @Sogdiana / Samarkand |
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| Afrosiyob - High Speed Train @ Samarkand |
The ubiquitous image of Silk Road that comes into different visualizations is of ancient caravans of traders criss- crossing across mountains and deserts.. Indians, Greeks, Persians, Chinese, Mongols, Turks, Romans - all converged at Samarkand. Unlike what's generally thought of, silk was not the only significant item traded on Silk Road. Fergana valley near Samarkand , Kazhakistan & Turkmenistan nearby used to be famous for horses of finest quality. Lapiz Lazuli, the blue colored God Stone found in Uzbekistan - Afghanistan area was much sought after by traders, paper - made from mulberry leaves, spices from India were also traded along the silk road.
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| Registan Square @ Night |
Trade is the forerunner of culture. Traditional Uzbek dishes like Pilaaf and Samsa are quite similar to the Pulaav and Samosa in India. Many words in Uzbek language are from Turk, Persian etc. The leisurely Tea drinking culture of Turkey is quite prevalent here as well. Though traditionally a Muslim country, churches are there in Uzbekistan.
Samarkand’s history stretches along many phases. From Alexander’s time to Ghengiz Khan’s time, the trade along Silk Road developed. Sogdiana as the region was called then, was a major learning and trading center. The Mongol invasion virtually obliterated Samarkand.
Post that was perhaps the zenith of Samarkand culminating is Timur/Tamerlane’s empire. The Mughal’s were descendants of Timur and are deeply respected here. 14th February is a holiday in Uzbekistan not for valentine day, but for Babur’s Birthday. Baburnama, his epic treatise is about his struggles to control his inherited Kingdom of Samarkand .
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| Ullugh Beg Statue near his observatory |
Ulugh Beg, one of the Timurid Sultans was a world renowned Mathematician & Astronomer. Inspired by Tycho Brahe's observatories, he built one in Samarkand. This and the nearby Madrasa's turned Samarkand into a learning center. The remnants of observatory and the sun-dial systems (sextant) built here is quite similar to what you see in Jantar Mantar in India.
Apparently during those times, religion was just one of the many subjects taught in Madrasas. Science, Astronomy, Mathematics , Medicine, Physiology, History and Philosophy were also taught in Madrasas during Ulugh Beg's time. Indeed, the word Madrasa, just means a place to study. Compare that to what Madrasas have come to represent in modern times. When you think about why the other subjects gradually faded to oblivion while religion and theocracy survived. One of the characteristics of any religion is dogmatic beliefs which cannot be changed at any costs. Science / Mathematics or any modern subjects are subject to change based on experimentation and proof. Once, religion gets mixed with modern subjects, this dogma and experimentation aspects clash ..And in most countries, wherever this mixing of religion and science has happened, religion has thrived and science has lagged.
The picturesque Registan Square, found in most images about this city is a marvel to visit, quite similar in stature to Taj Mahal. The grandeur of the blue domes as well as the nearby Bibi Khanum (Timur’s wife) mosque is amplified at night during the sound and light show.
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| Samarkand's cultural tourism marketing |
While the city has a Silk Road center which serves as a modern shopping hub and conference center, I think from a tourism and culture perspective, they have really failed to capitalize on the history of Silkroad by concentrating more on Timurid times. We did a day trip to nearby Shahrisaabz, which was a bit underwhelming, except for the tallest statue of Timur. Samarkand is designated as the World Cultural Tourism Capital by UNWTO (UN World Tourism Organization). This provides them a good launchpad for developing its tourism potential.
The city left an impression of a growing young person, eager to re-establish the legacy and splendor of his fore-fathers, yet not quite clear on what he/she should do.
And to sign-off, in a unique coincidence, we met with the very same Indian couple from US whom we met in the Tashkent hotel, in Samarkand hotel as well.
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